The Chardonnay that thinks it’s a Sauvignon Blanc (by California standards anyway)
2007 Nalle Chardonnay
by Haydn Adams | Beyond Napa Valley Wine Blog
Hopkins Ranch, Russian River Valley
Alcohol: 13.7%
Haydn gives it: 93pts
One cannot talk about Nalle Wine without talking about Doug Nalle (co-founder with wife Lee) as well. For over 25 years, Nalle wines have been a staple in Dry Creek. Their above-ground wine cave (dubbed the potato bunker) could possibly dwarf Ferari-Carano’s estate in terms of recognizable landmarks in the valley.
Along with physical landmarks, Nalle’s wine is definitely worth taking note of. While his Zinfandels and Pinot Noirs are exceptional, it is the Chardonnay which was one of the most pleasant and yet the most surprising of the day.
The minute I and my friend, Kelly stepped out of the car, we were immediately greeted by Lee and Andrew (son) as well as Henry, the resident 13 y/o dog. Kelly’s dog, Lucy, and Henry also greeted each other. We quickly discussed with Lee if it would be alright to let Lucy run free, but the consensus was to tie her up. All the while, Doug came outside with two glasses of a white wine and we began our tasting out on the front concrete of the potato bunker.
Not knowing what it was, Doug asked me to identify the wine. I took a good sniff and picked up a bit of citrus. My first thought that ran through my head was a bit of apricot on the nose. Doug further asissted by suggesting that he even detected a hint of mint, almost of the mint julep kind. I concurred and concluded it was a Sauvignon Blanc. Pleasant, light and a bit acidic.
Nope. Wrong answer. Doug expressed that it was a Chardonnay. I was floored. Not that I had guessed incorrectly, but it tasted nothing like a Chardonnay by traditional California standards. Apparently I was not the first person to suggest a Sauvignon Blanc. After all, I was standing in a valley that grows Sauvignon Blanc to Chardonnay by about 30:1. (Due to Dry Creek’s hotter climate, the Sauv. Blanc does far better than the Chardonnay)
Doug mentioned that he generally detected a bit of pear in this wine, but that it had been opened for quite a while and that a slight change in character could happen. He further explained that it was much closer to a White Burgandy. I agreed, especially due to the lightness of the wine. But no oak and a slight tingle of butter on this one. Non-Chardonnay drinkers, listen up. This one’s for you!
We continued the tasting outside, with Doug running in and out to continually fill our glasses. We gabbed about overpriced wine in the Napa Valley, the snobbery that occurs out there and about winemaking as a whole. Doug and I further agree that wine points are just that, points. Drink what you like, not what someone else says. I did hesitate to give this wine points at the top, but I figured I’m happy to play along. For the record, my points are merely an educated guess at where this wine would fall. 0-50 and it should be used for cooking. Anything over 90 points and you should buy a case (and with this wine, their are only 125 of them, so don’t delay).
For a Chardonnay that doesn’t act or taste like a Chardonnay, I’d suggest the 2007 Chardonnay. It sells for $35 and you can buy it at nallewinery.com/
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Haydn is the author of the book, Wineries Beyond Napa Valley: Dry Creek and Alexander Valley, an insider’s tasting guide to the hidden gems of the region. He also writes for vinvillage.com. When he is not teaching, or working in his office, you can find Haydn somewhere in Sonoma spitting out wines (that’s a good thing for the record).
