The wine world can basically be compartmentalized into two worlds: The New World & The Old World.

The Old World is France, and basically any other country within a trebuchet’s throw of France. Wines have been ratified by treaties, classified by region and not varietal, and are poured in chateaûs beckoning you with long dusty roads leading to a grand entrance.

The new world grabbed Alfred Nobel’s dynamite, and went into a whole new direction. This is what the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art’s exhibit: How Wine Became Modern | Design + Wine 1976 to Now, is all about. In other words, this ‘aint your Grandmother’s wine.

A large panel of bottles adorns a large wall in the middle of the exhibit to showcase all of the completely wacky, crazy, sexy, sleazy wine labels around. From wine labels literally inscribed, “cat pee” to Hard Row to Hoe’s Shameless Hussy (seen to the right), to a few Big Ass Cabs along with a few minimalist designs. Conventional label design was nowhere to be found.

Another room was dedicated to the construction and architecture of wineries. Imagine Frank Gehry getting commissions around the world to design wineries (How fun is that?). Scale models were scattered around the room allowing the visitor to examine the winery from a pure architectural perspective.

Apart from the portfolio of labels and buildings was the evolution in education in the wine world A complete collection of Riedel (pronounced REE-dell) is laid out with captions describing the appropriate wine to serve in the appropriate glass. I’m always amazed at how different styles of glasses can affect the taste so dramatically. (For all you Riedel card carrying fan club members, the glasses displayed were all of the sommelier series).

And what wine gallery wouldn’t be complete without—wine! No you can’t drink it, but 6 modified beakers held different wines in which you could stick your nose in a funnel-shaped piece and take in the aromas of the specific wine. To help you out, the aromatics are listed above the wine to describe what you are meant to smell. For instance I was reminded of that distinctive cat pee / gooseberry aromatic that New Zealand wine is famous for.

Soil samples from around the world, a clone mapped out showcasing how the varietals came to be, along with books, books and more books that have recently been written to further educate the public about the ever changing wine world (sadly, mind was not in there).

Needless to say, I was an oenophile in a wine shop. My favorite part of the show? Seeing the description that white Zinfandel is not made from white grapes. Classic (see the picture to the left). San Franciscans (or anyone else living near San Francisco or planning to visit San Francisco up until April), go and see this show! It’s a fun, educational look at the evolving world of wine.

Cheers,
Haydn

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Haydn Adams is the author of the book, Wineries Beyond Napa Valley: Dry Creek and Alexander Valley, an insider’s tasting guide to the hidden gems region. He also contributes to the Beyond Napa Valley Wine Blog, writes for vinvillage.com, and can be found roaming the hills of Sonoma County looking for the next hidden gems. Ironically, his editor is omnipresent but, sadly, we rarely spot her.