I’ve had quite a few people ask me this question. Before I quickly jump into the answer, a quick look at the reasons why you should use a decanter probably should be addressed.

Above anything else, the greatest gift you can give wine is time. Much like the enjoyment of wine should not be rush, nor should the rush for the best taste. There is a reason why wine critics (such as myself) suggest a certain range of years for the wine to mature. It is so the wine can settle down, lose some tannins, deepen in flavor, and turn into what it was meant for—to be the nectar of the Gods (Ok, maybe not Beringer, but maybe Nalle or Quivira). There is no magic formula that will turn young wine old or make bad wine great.

The purpose of a decanter is to allow air to infiltrate the wine. By having the wine flow into the neck and spread out into the bottom, you’re infusing air into the wine. A little air does wonders. Too much, and you’ve got a turned wine. Decanting also helps get that initial menthol or alcohol smell off the top of the wine when it is initially opened.

As Tom Petty says, “The waiting is the hardest part”. It’s true about wine. The reason why decanters exist is to speed up the “opening” of wine. Remember, even if you have a decanter, give your wine some time to “chill out”.

Lastly, not everyone bottle has to be decanted. Roughly 90% of the wines purchased are meant to drink now. Certain wines are not going to improve lingering in the decanter. You are not going to make a 2-buck chuck (readers, please don’t even try) turn into a Chateau Lafite Rothschild (it sells for about $1,500 give or take a few Euros). So be aware that not everything will imrpove when thrown into a decanter.

Decanters Can Improve the wine

That being said, decanters can really do a number on the wine. By allowing that air in, and for a large surface area to be exposed, you’re expediting the airing of the wine. You’re 2000 Sonoma Cab isn’t taking breaths, it’s gulping buckets of air.

It is always a good idea to taste the wine before pouring the wine into the decanter. Do not assume the wine is good. At one point, roughly 12% of the wines were corked.

Once it is poured in, give it just a few minutes to settle down. Then pour it in your class and give it another taste. If wine was a color, the decanter would take the wine from dirty brown to vibrant red in taste. Decanters will brighten well-made wine.

Note: Most wines at large supermarkets are ready to drink now and do not need the aide of a decanter.

What decanter should I buy?

To re-cap one more time, the purpose of a decanter is to maximize the amount of air that touches the wine. Plain and simple. So, when deciding on a decanter, look for a wide bottom and a fair-sized tapered neck.

One of my favorites is the Crate and Barrel Gallery Carafe. It sells on their website for $19.95. Apparently it’s hand blown, too. It’s simple and does the job.

I also advocate against any decanter that sells for $60 or more. The reason? How many wine glasses have you broken? If you thought glasses were hard to clean, wait until you get your hands dirty with a decanter.

Another decanter I recommend for not much more is Wine Enthusiast’s Vivid Wine Decanter. It retails on the site for a sale price of $27.99. This is one of the widest bottoms I’ve seen in a decanter.

Riedel makes decanters, and I imagine that they probably can turn water into wine if you poured it in. However, with price tags commanding $150 and up, I’ll stick to buying quality wines and using a run-of-the-mill decanter. Chances are good to great that I’d be too nervous in breaking it when washing a device that costs more than the wine I’m putting in it (should be the other way around) and I’d leave it on a shelf as decoration.

Overall, find a decently shaped decanter, but don’t break the bank on them. The wine world is filled with overpriced items, and decanters have an air of greatness to them (yes, pun intended). In reality, they’re simple devices that help air mix with wine.

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Haydn is the author of the book, Wineries Beyond Napa Valley: Dry Creek and Alexander Valley, an insider’s tasting guide to the regions. He also writes for vinvillage.com. When he is not teaching, or working in his office, you can find Haydn somewhere in Sonoma spitting out wines (that’s a good thing for the record).