The California landscape is dotted with more Chardonnays than CHP cars. It seems that one can toss a dart onto a wine map and inevitably find a Chardonnay-producing winery. The flavor notes are as scattered on the wine wheel as the grapes are in any particular AVA (wine region). Stainless steel, new French oak, used French oak, Hungarian oak (ok, for the record I’ve yet to see a Chardonnay touch Hungarian Oak, but I just never know), a mixture of oak and steel, and on and on the list continues. There’s the ABC club, or anything but Chardonnay, and the Le Crema fan club (one of the more oakey Chards).

Then we have the 2009 Cougar Chardonnay from Temecula. With colors that resemble a Savignon Blanc and an alcohol percentage that is unheard of in California (11.5%) in the Chardonnay world, this wine is way off the charted characteristics of what and how a Chardonnay should behave and act.

With this Chardonnay, you’re going to get hints of tropical fruits, going all the way into the guava and coconut arena. If by now you’re saying that’s madness, well, you’re partially right. Thankfully the wine rebounds with additions of Chardonnay characteristics with a little bit of acidity mixed in with a few bartlett pears. The secret to the notes of this Chardonnay is in the way it is produced—the wine never touched an oak barrel, new or used, at all.

The 2009 Cougar Chardonnay is a great wine pre-dinner. The low alcohol is a pleasant welcome to the Chardonnay arena, which means you can enjoy a glass or two and still follow your dinner recipe if need be. The lightness of alcohol makes this wine rub elbows with the Riesling world, in terms of an un-heavy wine when it hits the mid-palate.

For food, the lighter the better. Being a distant 5th cousin to Riesling, the Chardonnay here could possibly be paired with a non-spicy Thai dish (it’s not potent enough to remove the spice from your mouth) or maybe crab cakes.

For a new take on an old California standard, have a look, and a taste of the Cougar 2009 Chardonnay from Temecula Valley. At $20, it’s well look a few looks, um, tastes.

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Haydn Adams is the author of the book, Wineries Beyond Napa Valley: Dry Creek and Alexander Valley, an insider’s tasting guide to the hidden gems region. He also contributes to the Beyond Napa Valley Wine Blog, writes for vinvillage.com, and can be found roaming the hills of Sonoma County looking for the next hidden gems. You can contact him at haydn@beyondnapavalley.com

I had the chance to check out the latest and greatest Pinots coming out of California at this year’s Pinot Days in San Francisco. Yet one booth turned the whole tasting on it’s head. I’m referring to the New Zealand Pinot booth. Unconsciously I began comparing and contrasting the two worlds. Here is what I was able to deduce.

In California, it’s all about the Clone Wars

This fruit truly never falls far from UC Davis when it comes to California. It seems that every story of Pinot can be rooted back (yes, puns intended here) to the University. And a good portion of vineyards were all too happy to announce that they are using the latest and greatest rootstock.

It was then that I recalled a surprisingly profound quote by Jeff Goldblum from the movie Jurassic Park to which he said, “They were so focused on whether or not they could, they didn’t stop to think if they should”. Such is the case with a few of the vintners. I did like the wine, but the sales pitch, at one point, came down to a map showcasing where the various clones were being grown.

Now there comes a time when, say with PapaPietro Perry, that their single clone 777 Pinot Noir simply shines (and for the record they didn’t blare that clone name over the loudspeaker) and is stunningly gorgeous. But there were others where it was not only a blend of clones but a muting of tastes.

In New Zealand, it’s all about the grape

At the New Zealand booth, they were focusing more on growing conditions, regions, the environment. Yes, they did include a map, but only to show the regions of the wine, so a taster could locate Martinborough on the map. The wines were even arranged from North to South. It was a striking difference between the sales pitches of California vineyards and the New Zealand ones.

Which one was better? They both are. Because science can and does help a wine out. Yet there is something to be said about picking a good plot of land, growing the grapes organically and a simple bottle and barrel process. Pinot Noir is a funky grape and while you can spend an eternity rangling it, letting it be on it’s own is sometimes the best formula. And it never hurts to have one of the most goregous vineyards in one of the world’s best Pinot-growing regions to help sell your wine (Rippon Vineyards).

Recommend Pinots from Pinot Days in SF:

PapaPietro Perry 777 Pinot Noir, Russian River ($70)

Skewis 2006 Peters Vineyard, Sonoma Coast ($48)

Winemaker Notes 2006 Laetitia Pinot Noir Reserve ($40)

Mt. Difficulty Roaring Meg (NZ) ($17)

Fort Ross Symposium ($32)

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Haydn Adams is the author of the book, Wineries Beyond Napa Valley: Dry Creek and Alexander Valley, an insider’s tasting guide to the hidden gems region. He also contributes to the Beyond Napa Valley Wine Blog, writes for vinvillage.com, and can be found roaming the hills of Sonoma County looking for the next hidden gems. You can contact him at haydn@beyondnapavalley.com

Paso Robles is quickly becoming the new hot spot for California wines. Once a farming and agricultural center, Paso Robles is the home of over 100 wineries and growing rapidly. One of the more predominant names you will find in Paso is Tablas Creek, known for its eclectic Rhone varietals. The winemaking is supreme. All the vines were imported from France, planted in Paso Robles soil, which adapted amazingly to their new home. Many of their wines have been highly praised and decorated by some of the most prolific names in the wine community, and I would imagine, with new blends and vintages alike, they will continue to gain admirers and popularity.

Recently I tried the 2007 ‘Cote de Tablas’ Blanc, dry white table wine. A blend of 38% Viognier, 25% Marsanne, 20% Roussane, and 17% Grenache Blanc, this Rhone style white blend a perfect wine to drink on a warm summer day. Magnificently golden colored, this wine looks like liquid gold in the glass. Aromas of honey suckle entice the nose, followed by hints of white flower and pear. This bouquet continues to the palate and on first taste, you’ll find a creamy round mouth feel, fully equipped with vanilla, tropical fruits, and peach. These flavors linger to the back palate and finish with a refreshing taste. This wine won’t last long in your glass and you’ll probably want to order another!

Order online at tablascreek.com or find this wine along with other Tablas Creek variatals at fine wine locations.

xo,
Ashley aka Your Wine Mistress