Let’s Get Fizzacle!

Sure, bubbly is boss on New Years and even at celebrations like birthdays and anniversaries, but why not add its charming sparkle to silly-sweet St. Valentine’s Day? I can’t think of a lustier toast … except for maybe Bedrock’s ravishing Ode to Lulu rosé, or a sinful zinfandel, or ….

Here’s my go-to list:


NV Domaine Chandon étoile Sonoma-Napa Brut, $40 As crisp as the February fallen snow yet buttery and full like a fresh baked croissant, this American bubbly enlivens your senses with juicy strawberry, orange, and vibrant apple notes. chandon.com

2003 Roederer Estate L’Ermitage Brut Rosé, $70 Louis Roederer Brut champagne, France, is one of my favorite bottles so this second release of the limited pink version really puts the rosy in my cheeks. Opulent and deep: think fresh peach, strawberry, white mineral, hints of sweet bread dough and ripe red fruits. Embrace the splurge. champagne-roederer.com

Moet & Chandon Rosé Imperial, $120 She’ll love you for this girly-pink Valentine’s gift set that’s just as gimmicky as the greeting card driven holiday—and perfect for the lady who has everything. Fleshy body, with intense flavors of cherry, white pepper, and red fruit that dance on your tongue with youthful freshness. Yes, Scarlett Johansson in a bottle!  moet.com.

J Cuvee 20 Brut, J Vineyards, Russian River Valley, $20 What do you get when you mix almonds, apples, peach and stone fruits, toast and tiny bubbles with a lingering clean finish? Hello Valentine: a well-crafted classy sparkler with a civilized price that pairs well with spicy dishes and companions alike. jvineyards.com.

Jaillance Brut Crémant de Bordeaux Cuvée de l’Abbaye, $19 Elegant honey-hued with a rich bouquet of sweet almonds, white flowers, and marjoram; notes of pear, stone fruit, and brioche on the finish. Crémant is the fine dry sparkling wine produced in France outside of the champagne region. You’ll even have enough dough left over for that box of chocolates. jaillance.com.

Red, Red Wine

If seeking something bolder to go with your Valentine’s feast, consider:

Caminada Winery Malbec, Uco Valley Mendoza Argentina, $11 This off-the-beaten path selection with a jazzy label is sure to seduce over a lingering dinner for two. A ruby red hue, spicy sensory notes, and flavors of vanilla, cherry and plum put this juicy Malbec in the running for an affordable option that pairs well with grilled meats and tango partners alike. caminadawines.com

Zinful Sips

Our list of super California zinfandel wines is long but here are a few you can rely on: Lambert Bridge, Ravenswood, Ridge, Dutcher Crossing, Seghesio. Many of them are from Dry Creek Valley where some of the very oldest vines produce the hippest and happiest wines.

Cheers!

Robin

Favorite quotes:

* The right time to drink Champagne from Madame ‘Lily’ Bollinger: “I drink my Champagne when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it — unless I’m thirsty.”

*Age does not protect you from love. But love, to some extent, protects you from age.

How Wine Became Modern: Design + Wine 1976 to Now; an SF MOMA Exhibit

The wine world can basically be compartmentalized into two worlds: The New World & The Old World.

The Old World is France, and basically any other country within a trebuchet’s throw of France. Wines have been ratified by treaties, classified by region and not varietal, and are poured in chateaûs beckoning you with long dusty roads leading to a grand entrance.

The new world grabbed Alfred Nobel’s dynamite, and went into a whole new direction. This is what the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art’s exhibit: How Wine Became Modern | Design + Wine 1976 to Now, is all about. In other words, this ‘aint your Grandmother’s wine.

A large panel of bottles adorns a large wall in the middle of the exhibit to showcase all of the completely wacky, crazy, sexy, sleazy wine labels around. From wine labels literally inscribed, “cat pee” to Hard Row to Hoe’s Shameless Hussy (seen to the right), to a few Big Ass Cabs along with a few minimalist designs. Conventional label design was nowhere to be found.

Another room was dedicated to the construction and architecture of wineries. Imagine Frank Gehry getting commissions around the world to design wineries (How fun is that?). Scale models were scattered around the room allowing the visitor to examine the winery from a pure architectural perspective.

Apart from the portfolio of labels and buildings was the evolution in education in the wine world A complete collection of Riedel (pronounced REE-dell) is laid out with captions describing the appropriate wine to serve in the appropriate glass. I’m always amazed at how different styles of glasses can affect the taste so dramatically. (For all you Riedel card carrying fan club members, the glasses displayed were all of the sommelier series).

And what wine gallery wouldn’t be complete without—wine! No you can’t drink it, but 6 modified beakers held different wines in which you could stick your nose in a funnel-shaped piece and take in the aromas of the specific wine. To help you out, the aromatics are listed above the wine to describe what you are meant to smell. For instance I was reminded of that distinctive cat pee / gooseberry aromatic that New Zealand wine is famous for.

Soil samples from around the world, a clone mapped out showcasing how the varietals came to be, along with books, books and more books that have recently been written to further educate the public about the ever changing wine world (sadly, mind was not in there).

Needless to say, I was an oenophile in a wine shop. My favorite part of the show? Seeing the description that white Zinfandel is not made from white grapes. Classic (see the picture to the left). San Franciscans (or anyone else living near San Francisco or planning to visit San Francisco up until April), go and see this show! It’s a fun, educational look at the evolving world of wine.

Cheers,
Haydn

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Haydn Adams is the author of the book, Wineries Beyond Napa Valley: Dry Creek and Alexander Valley, an insider’s tasting guide to the hidden gems region. He also contributes to the Beyond Napa Valley Wine Blog, writes for vinvillage.com, and can be found roaming the hills of Sonoma County looking for the next hidden gems. Ironically, his editor is omnipresent but, sadly, we rarely spot her.

The Top 10 Wines of 2010

I’m officially declaring 2010 the year of the rosé. Yes, I know that many wineries have been producing stellar rosés for years, but I felt that this year was the tipping point where the public started to get behind the pink drink again. It was the year when wineries paid much more attention to the making of it and the quality of the wine rose (no pun intended) to a higher elevation. While only one rosé officially made the list, it was a subconscious collaboration that led to the announcement.

And now I give you, the top 10 wines of 2010:

#10 Acacia 2009 Viognier
Price: $35
You can buy this wine at acaciavineyards.com

A delectable white wine that will get your taste buds humming. The Viognier is classic with a bit of white peach and apricot along with a touch of sweet orange. You also might find a hint of honeysuckle on the nose. Yum.

#9 Montemaggiore 2009 3divas white wine blend
Price: $25
You can buy this wine at montemaggiore.com
(A blend of Viogner, Marsanne & Roussane)

This wine begs for the spotlight (it’s a Diva, after all). The nose of the wine displays more of the Viogner with a bit of honey, butterscotch and a hint of pear. The mid-palate brings in characteristics of the other two grapes—Marsanne & Roussane, with the wine displaying characteristics of melon and orange along with a bit of light spice.

#8 Aver Family Vineyards 2007 Blessings (Petite Sirah)
Price: $45
You can buy this wine at averfamilyvineyards.com

Aver Family Vineyards is turning it up to 11 when it comes to Petite Sirah. This wine is dark and inky and showcases black cherries with a wet leather component. Petite Sirah fans: this wine is for you.

#7 Bedrock 2009 “Ode to Lulu” Rosé (Mourvedre)
Price: $22
You can buy this wine at bedrockwineco.com

Morgan Twain-Peterson is one of the mavericks leading the charge to reshape the rosé world. His rosé, made from 120 year old Mourvedre grapes, is stunningly gorgeous. Bright red berries dance along your mid-palate and then surprisingly, a bit of luxe creaminess sneaks in. It’s bright minerality will leave a lasting finish.

#6 Chelan Ridge Chardonnay
Price: $16
To order: Give Chelan Ridge a call at (509) 687-4455. The website is on its way.

The wine showcased ripe granny smith apples along with honeysuckle and a bit of vanilla. The honeysuckle was also present in the bouquet of the Chardonnay. You can also find a bit of apricot upfront. Hat’s off to this brand new winery for hitting it out of the park on their initial release.

#5 Kokomo Syrah
Price: $27
You can buy this wine at kokomowines.com

Wow. You’re in for a spectacle when you uncork this wine. It’s a Rhone-style wine all of the way—with hints of white pepper, dark berries along with a bit of currant. Kokomo raised the bar on what a Syrah can be.

#4 2008 “A Tribute to Grace” (Grenache)
Price: Retail $35 to $40
You can find this wine at local merchants in Sonoma County along with San Francisco and San Diego. Or e-mail the winemaker directly at angela@gracewinecompany.com

Watch out for winemaker, Angela Osborne. The subtle power of her Grenache is stunning. It’s reserved, balanced and simply beautiful. To top it off (no pun intended), all of the 2008 vintage were hand bottled, all 2000+ plus of them. The Grenache has a particular softness, a delicateness that is rarely seen in the wine world.

#3 Bedrock Wine Co. 2008 Heirloom Red Wine (Zinfandel)
Price: $35
Sold Out

This wine has more varietals in it than most wine 101 books out there on the market. It’s mostly comprised of Zinfandel (40%), followed by Carignane. As Steven Tanzer puts it, this wine has “seductive aromas”, and I must agree. Dark fruit notes mixed with a hint of spice make it exceptionally seductive.

#2 LaFollette Winery 2008 Chardonnay
Price: 29.99
Sold Out

This wine is dark rich golden yellow by traditional Chardonnay standards. A bountiful mix of butterscotch, spiced pear and a hint of lemon can be found in the wine. It’s a full-bodied Chardonnay. Period. You might need to sit down or at least catch your breath after your first glass, as this is a serious Chardonnay. Winemaker Greg LaFollette is a master winemaker and he once again showcases the potential in a Chardonnay grape.

#1 Just Joshin 2007 Sierra Foothills Tempranillo (81% Tempranillo, 19% Grenache)
Price: $15
You can buy this wine at steinfamilywines.com

Ahh the tempranillo grape. Quiet, subdued ,yet under the right control, it can be a beautiful spectacle to behold. Stein Family Wine’s Tempranillo showcases a balance of blueberries & brighter red berries combined with with a mocha aspect, and topped off with a dusting of terrior. A good amount of tannins make it perfect to pair with food. Yet the softer nature of this wine (in part due to the Tempranillo itself) makes an equally good sipping wine. Winemaker Josh Stein hit every note perfectly in crafting this wine.

A relatively quiet grape from a small producer who deserves a large amount of credit. And the icing on the cake? It’s only $15! This wine is near if not perfect on multiple levels.

This wine embodies the mission of Beyond Napa Valley: To discover new wines and wineries, beyond Napa Valley.

Cheers to 2011 and more wine finds,
Haydn S. Adams

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Haydn Adams is the author of the book, Wineries Beyond Napa Valley: Dry Creek and Alexander Valley, an insider’s tasting guide to the hidden gems region. He also contributes to the Beyond Napa Valley Wine Blog, writes for vinvillage.com, and can be found roaming the hills of Sonoma County looking for the next hidden gems. You can contact him at haydn@beyondnapavalley.com. A big thank you to writer / editor Robin Barr Sussman for her help on this list.

Review of the 3Divas White Wine Blend from Montemaggiore winery

3Divas, Montemaggiore
Appellation: Russian River Valley
Price: $25
Haydn gives it: 92pts
You can buy this wine: at montemaggiore.com

Montemaggiore continues to defy conventional varietals when it comes to its location in Dry Creek. Their red wine portfolio is missing a Zinfandel, but instead showcases what Syrahs and Cabernet Sauvignons can do in the valley. So it shouldn’t come as too much of a surprise that when Montemaggiore decided to make a white, the Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek’s staple white) apparently was passed over, as well as the classic Chardonnay. However, here’s a white wine that begs for the spotlight.

Sourcing grapes from the Russian River Valley, winemaker Lise Ciolino, blends a combination of  Viogner, Marsanne & Roussane, resulting in what she calls the 3Divas. While all three ladies work well together, each one seems to come out and sing at least a solo before the finish.

The nose of this wine displays more of the Viogner, with a bit of honey, butterscotch and a hint of pear. The mid-palate brings in characteristics of the other two—Marsanne & Roussane, with the wine displaying characteristics of melon and orange, along with a bit of light spice.

There is a little bit of oak in the wine, but it’s faint thanks to the neutral French oak barrels and no malolactic fermentation. It’s clean, refreshing and a great introductory wine (shh, don’t tell the divas) to a meal. It will warm up your taste buds and get them ready for heavier wines. An exceptionally well-made wine.

Cheers,
Haydn

Follow Haydn on twitter at @haydnadams

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Haydn Adams is the author of the book, Wineries Beyond Napa Valley: Dry Creek and Alexander Valley, an insider’s tasting guide to the hidden gems region. He also contributes to the Beyond Napa Valley Wine Blog, writes for vinvillage.com, and can be found roaming the hills of Sonoma County looking for the next hidden gems. You can contact him at haydn@beyondnapavalley.com

Review of the Kunde Estate 2009 Grenache Rose

Wine: 2009 Grenache Rose
Appellation:  Sonoma Valley, Kunde Estate
Alc: 13.6%
Price: $13.00
Haydn gives it: 88pts
You can purchase this wine at:  Kune Estates

With the exception of San Francisco, it seems like summer is in full swing for most of America. And with summertime comes warm nights and cool drinks. At least for me, my whites department get a bit thin come August. And while I enjoy good crisp New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc like the rest of the kiwis, it’s the rose which is my go to drink this summer for cool wines.

Last Sunday I had the pleasure of discovering a new Grenache rose, from Kunde Estates, located in the heart of Sonoma. The rose is comprised is close to being called a blend, with it being made up of 80% Grenache, 17% Syrah, and 3% Viognier.

The first thing you’ll notice about this wine is it’s color. It almost glows with a deep and bright red, pushing a bit into the purple-violet area a bit. All of the a sudden, the Pinot Noir rose I had next to it seemed to turn more of a salmon color, but compared. For such an overall subtle grape, the Grenache, the color did not hold back.

This wine will make you smile. It speaks to summertime; fresh strawberries, a touch of raspberry along with a little watermelon. The wine is a tad sweeter than some of it’s dryer Grenache rose cousins, thanks in part to a bit of residual sugar.

Summertime and Kunde’s 2009 Grenache Rose are a perfect compliment. It will cool you down and delight your taste buds without breaking the bank with the beautiful price.

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Haydn Adams is the author of the book, Wineries Beyond Napa Valley: Dry Creek and Alexander Valley, an insider’s tasting guide to the hidden gems region. He also contributes to the Beyond Napa Valley Wine Blog, writes for vinvillage.com, and can be found roaming the hills of Sonoma County looking for the next hidden gems. You can contact him at haydn@beyondnapavalley.com

The wines and the growers of Dutcher Crossing Winery

A wine barrel is much more than simply the work of a cooper turning up the heat to medium or high on American or French Oak. It really comes alive when the wine comes into contact with it and stars its metamorphosis during those long months in the barrel room. However, while there is so much care and attention to the storage of the wine during that time, the real energy begins literally at the root level, in the fields. It’s here that the growers spend endless hours watching and cultivating the vines, making sure that the grapes are the best that they can be when they are finally cut, processed and their juices poured into the barrel.

At Dutcher Crossing, it was the growers time to shine this past weekend. The winery held a barrel and tank tasting complete with the growers themselves holding the wine thieves (the tool used to sample wine from a barrel). This was something I’ve very rarely experienced.

I found it immensely pleasurable to chat with the ones who tended to the very grapes that I now have in my glass. They were enjoyable to chat with, learning about how each one cared for the grapes in a different way, depending upon the conditions they were in.

I found it fascinating how the Bernier-Sibary Zinfandel was a true field blend— a replica percentage planting of the grapes. While that is the true definition of the term “field blend”, more often than not wineries are using it more in conjunction to simply indicate a blend.

Some of the wines surprised me, as was the case with the ’08 Cabernet Sauvignon. I would have guessed before even tasting that the tannins would have been charging towards my taste buds faster than a sports car. However, and to my enjoyment, the tannins were immensely subdued, to which the grower also concurred.

A great sampling of tank and barrel sampled coupled with scrumptious food made my wine tasting at Dutcher Crossing one I will not soon forget. If you’re in Dry Creek, take a trip north to Dutcher Crossing. The stories, if not only the wine, will surely excite you!

Cheers,
Haydn

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Haydn Adams is the author of the book, Wineries Beyond Napa Valley: Dry Creek and Alexander Valley, an insider’s tasting guide to the hidden gems region. He also contributes to the Beyond Napa Valley Wine Blog, writes for vinvillage.com, and can be found roaming the hills of Sonoma County (and at times, Napa Valley) looking for the next hidden gems. You can contact him at haydn@beyondnapavalley.com.

The Wines at Crush Barrel Wine Market

There was something for everyone at July’s Crush Barrel Wine Market, from bubbly bruts to earthy Bordeaux blends. The event was set at Fort Mason, in San Francisco, where wine enthusiasts could try and buy, directly from the winery. Here are the top picks of the market:

Best of Show – Stein Family

A new discovery and overall best of show winner was Stein Family Winery. Josh Stein was on hand to personally pour his two wines— a 2009 Los Carneros Semi-Dry Gewürztraminer and his Just Joshin 2007 Tempranillo, from the Sierra Foothills. The Gewürztraminer was beautiful with honeysuckle and rose pedals on the mid-palate with a big of orange and lemon to round it out. A touch of residual sugar adds to this wine, kicking up the acidity a bit and making it a desirable wine for my next outing to a thai restaurant.

The tempranillo further illustrated that, to me, the grape is Cabernet’s baby sister. It ripe and ready to drink now, though you might want to wait a few years for the soft tannins to further settle. There’s a bit of blueberries and red berries mixed with a mocha aspect, further added by a dusting of dirt (terrior). Tempranillos have a higher bit of acidity, making it perfect for your next lamb shank dish.

Here are a few other noteworthy wines of the Crush Barrel Wine Market:

Aver Family Vineyard 2007 Homage (Syrah) – The wine is tasting beautifully right now. The tannins have somewhat resided and what you are left with is a medium spice coupled with a bit of vanilla and dark berries. It’s ready to drink now, though you could lay this down for another few years.

Ricardus Corculum 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon – Using a mixture of new French Oak as well and neutral, Ricardus Corculum has crafted a beautiful Cab. Blackberries can be found both on the mid-palate, along with a cedar plank spice and a bit of mocha. The wine is clean, with good, strong tannins. This is a wine that you’ll want to lay down for 10+ years.

R&B Cellars Fortissimo “Port” Desert Wine – A beautiful wine to finish off the wine tasting. I coupled this with a few chocolates from different tables to really get this port to shine. Tobacco, leather and plum can easily be found in this wine. It’s thick and leathery; simply beautiful.

Cheers,
Haydn

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Haydn Adams is the author of the book, Wineries Beyond Napa Valley: Dry Creek and Alexander Valley, an insider’s tasting guide to the hidden gems region. He also contributes to the Beyond Napa Valley Wine Blog, writes for vinvillage.com, and can be found roaming the hills of Sonoma County (and at times, Napa Valley) looking for the next hidden gems. You can contact him at haydn@beyondnapavalley.com.

Review of the Route 128 2006 PeLu Rouge, Opatz Family Vineyard

Route 128 PeLu Rouge bottleRoute 128 2006 PeLu Rouge, Opatz Family Vineyard
Appellation: Nestled in a mountain pass between Alexander Valley and Anderson Valley
Alc: 14.8%
Price: $34
Haydn gives it: 90pts
Total production: 1 barrel
You can buy this wine at: route128winery.com

PeLu Rouge, Opatz Family Vineyard

PeLue Rouge’s name simply comes from the names of the two owners— Lorna (Lulu is her nickname) and Pete. The husband and wife tag team opened up Route 128 a few years back in the Alexander Valley on the main street of Geyserville. A delicious wine, it is silky smooth with hardly a touch of tannins to speak of. There is a bit of blackberry mixed with a bit of black pepper, but it was as if the pepper’s strength had been turned way down to be a little bit more than a garnish rather than a main course. At a total production of 1 barrel, I don’t expect this wine to be around for too long. At that small production, and the beauty of the wine, it’s going to go fast.

Lulu explained to me, on a recent trip to their tasting room, that by giving it a proprietary name, they were able to be more flexible with the blending. They wanted this label to change up yearly, and by giving it the proprietary name, they were allowed to do that. This years’ blend is a co-fermentation of estate grapes, 65% Syrah, 25% Zinfandel & 10% Viognier. All three work together extremely well. While I wish all wines could stay the same forever, I also will be looking forward to the next vintage of the Lulu Rouge.

Keep up the great work, Route 128.

Cheers,
Haydn

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Haydn Adams is the author of the book, Wineries Beyond Napa Valley: Dry Creek and Alexander Valley, an insider’s tasting guide to the hidden gems region. He also contributes to the Beyond Napa Valley Wine Blog, writes for vinvillage.com, and can be found roaming the hills of Sonoma County (and at times, Napa Valley) looking for the next hidden gems. You can contact him at haydn@beyondnapavalley.com.

Review of the 2008 J Viognier, Hoot Owl Vineyard

2008 J Viognier, Hoot Owl Vineyard
Appellation: Alexander Valley
Alc: 14.3%
Price: $30
Haydn gives it: 90pts
You can buy this wine at: J Winery

Ahh the Viognier. It’s an often overlooked grape—with the Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay’s of the world commanding so much attention. It’s one of my top picks for whites when I’m out and about (granted I can even find a viognier on the wine list).

The J Viognier is a beautiful and delicate wine. It lightly dances on your taste buds as you consume it. On the nose, you will find a hint of peach and cantelope, with a twist of citrus to go with the two fruit. There is a minor about of acidity here that helps to round out the wine.

On the mid-palate, you continue to find cantelope, but with an additional mix of tropical fruits to go with it. A small hint of kiwi can also be found. The finish is eloquently smooth and luxurious.

This wine went both well with food, and on it’s own. This is a sipping wine for when you aren’t in a hurry. On second thought, this wine is for when you are in a hurry, since it will make you slow down. Don’t rush this white—it’s meant to be savored.

The Viogner is a beautiful contributor to J’s always impressive lineup of whites, including their sparklings. If you’re going to serve food with this, I’d recommend a light salad with an oil-based dressing with at least one kind of nut tossed in. Adding the small mandarin oranges would also pair will with this wine.

At $30, it comes in at a fairly high price for a white. That being said, savor this one and pull it out when the time is right. As for every day drinking, go for the J sparkling, since every day should be a day to celebrate.

Cheers,
Haydn

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Haydn Adams is the author of the book, Wineries Beyond Napa Valley: Dry Creek and Alexander Valley, an insider’s tasting guide to the hidden gems region. He also contributes to the Beyond Napa Valley Wine Blog, writes for vinvillage.com, and can be found roaming the hills of Sonoma County (and at times, Napa Valley) looking for the next hidden gems. You can contact him at haydn@beyondnapavalley.com.

Top 10 Wines of 2009

With the end of the year drawing ever so closer with every tick of the second hand, I felt it was appropriate to list my personal list of the top 10 wines of the year. These wines did not always score the highest, and I am sure Robert Parker’s list would look considerably different than mine. However, they each wine has a reason for being on the list.

Happy New Year, and enjoy,
Haydn Adams

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