I had the chance to check out the latest and greatest Pinots coming out of California at this year’s Pinot Days in San Francisco. Yet one booth turned the whole tasting on it’s head. I’m referring to the New Zealand Pinot booth. Unconsciously I began comparing and contrasting the two worlds. Here is what I was able to deduce.

In California, it’s all about the Clone Wars

This fruit truly never falls far from UC Davis when it comes to California. It seems that every story of Pinot can be rooted back (yes, puns intended here) to the University. And a good portion of vineyards were all too happy to announce that they are using the latest and greatest rootstock.

It was then that I recalled a surprisingly profound quote by Jeff Goldblum from the movie Jurassic Park to which he said, “They were so focused on whether or not they could, they didn’t stop to think if they should”. Such is the case with a few of the vintners. I did like the wine, but the sales pitch, at one point, came down to a map showcasing where the various clones were being grown.

Now there comes a time when, say with PapaPietro Perry, that their single clone 777 Pinot Noir simply shines (and for the record they didn’t blare that clone name over the loudspeaker) and is stunningly gorgeous. But there were others where it was not only a blend of clones but a muting of tastes.

In New Zealand, it’s all about the grape

At the New Zealand booth, they were focusing more on growing conditions, regions, the environment. Yes, they did include a map, but only to show the regions of the wine, so a taster could locate Martinborough on the map. The wines were even arranged from North to South. It was a striking difference between the sales pitches of California vineyards and the New Zealand ones.

Which one was better? They both are. Because science can and does help a wine out. Yet there is something to be said about picking a good plot of land, growing the grapes organically and a simple bottle and barrel process. Pinot Noir is a funky grape and while you can spend an eternity rangling it, letting it be on it’s own is sometimes the best formula. And it never hurts to have one of the most goregous vineyards in one of the world’s best Pinot-growing regions to help sell your wine (Rippon Vineyards).

Recommend Pinots from Pinot Days in SF:

PapaPietro Perry 777 Pinot Noir, Russian River ($70)

Skewis 2006 Peters Vineyard, Sonoma Coast ($48)

Winemaker Notes 2006 Laetitia Pinot Noir Reserve ($40)

Mt. Difficulty Roaring Meg (NZ) ($17)

Fort Ross Symposium ($32)

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Haydn Adams is the author of the book, Wineries Beyond Napa Valley: Dry Creek and Alexander Valley, an insider’s tasting guide to the hidden gems region. He also contributes to the Beyond Napa Valley Wine Blog, writes for vinvillage.com, and can be found roaming the hills of Sonoma County looking for the next hidden gems. You can contact him at haydn@beyondnapavalley.com

I was excited to try this wine. I had heard through the grapevine that Fort Ross was producing some of the strongest Pinotage in the land. I was also curious what exactly a Pinotage was. Turns out South Africa wanted to see what would happen if you cross a Pinot Noir and a cinsault (pronounced sin-so). And the result was a Pinotage.

Fort Ross was one of the first to plant Pinotage in California, going through the Foundation Plant Materials Service Program at UC Davis in order to aquire the appropriate bud wood. After many years, they first began producing in 2001. This this their 6th release of their Pinotage.

The color is fairly deep in this wine, with for only a bit in my glass, it still gets fairly dark. Not as far as a Petite Sirah, but getting towards that range. The nose is quite beautiful, with a little rose pedal coming out initially. Furthermore, you can find a bit of deep black berries and cherries here, as the fruit beacons to shine.

On the palate, you’ll find continued hints of the black berry with a little black tea in there. The fruit overall dominates, but there are multi-layers of tastes, including a bit of smoke and cocoa. The strength seems to be drawn back a bit as to not hit you too hard on the taste buds. I’d call it refined. The tannins are present, but hardly worth noting as they seem to enhance the wine versus hinder it.

I’m not sure if I’m influenced by knowing that it shares a family resemblance with the Pinot, but that black cherry really reminded me of a Pinot. If you get a chance, I’d recommend picking up both the Fort Ross Pinot Noir Symposium ($32) along with the Fort Ross Pinotage as they do share a bit of a similar characteristics. Kudos to Linda Schwartz, co-winemaker, for her impressive display of this often overlooked wine.

For more information about their other wines, check out my review of their 2007 Rosé.

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Haydn Adams is the author of the book, Wineries Beyond Napa Valley: Dry Creek and Alexander Valley, an insider’s tasting guide to the hidden gems region. He also contributes to the Beyond Napa Valley Wine Blog, writes for vinvillage.com, and can be found roaming the hills of Sonoma County looking for the next hidden gems. You can contact him at haydn@beyondnapavalley.com

Appellation: Sonoma Coast (not Carneros!), California
ALC: 13.9% (with 0.056% residual sugar)
You can buy this wine at: tandemwinery.com
Retail price: $48
Haydn gives it: 93pts

Ahh the Pinot Noir. The most delicate of the grapes, it’s been the obsession of new wine fanboys ever since that movie-that-shall-not-be-named hailed the Pinot as what was in the King’s Chalice. And so every vineyard with a grapes throw of a Pinot-producing region started planting it. What was left was a ton of average Pinots. Yet, this is not the case of the 2006 Pinot Noir by Tandem. Great growing regions, mixed with good clones equals good wine.

Upon first whiff, the hallmark characteristics shine forth, with bright cherries and a little bit of plums. Smooth on the nose, it is very aromatic. In addition, it is clearly evident that this is going to be a new-world Pinot. No horse hair or wet leather here. A complex tannin structure follows up on the mid-palate with the fruit continuing all the way through this wine.

The only real drawback is the alcohol is a bit more pronounced than I wish it was, as it finished a bit hot, even though the ALC is 13.9% (still high for French Pinot standards). That being said, it is a minor irritation on an overall very strong wine. Overall, this a very well-built and great-structured wine.

While most Pinots are destined to go with food, I could easily see myself sipping on this wine on it’s own. But if you’re looking for a bit of food to pair it with, I recommend either a turkey dish or some sort of game hen, as the medium weight to this wine will balance out the two quite nicely.

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Haydn Adams is the author of the book, Wineries Beyond Napa Valley: Dry Creek and Alexander Valley, an insider’s tasting guide to the hidden gems region. He also contributes to the Beyond Napa Valley Wine Blog, writes for vinvillage.com, and can be found roaming the hills of Sonoma County looking for the next hidden gems. You can contact him at haydn@beyondnapavalley.com

2007 Pinot Noir by Sleeping Dogs
by Haydn Adams | Beyond Napa Valley Blog

Retail Price: Unknown
Appellation: Central Otago, New Zealand
Where you can buy this wine: Station Imports
ALC: 13%
Haydn gives this wine: 89 pts

The first thing you’ll notice about this wine is that is a bit more on the sweeter end of Pinot world. Not big cherries hitting you in the face, not dirt either for that matter. What you will pick up is a bit of honey (yes, in a Pinot) and a bit of deeper purple-colored fruit, such as a blackberry. The nose is very well structured and the aromas almost seem to caress the senses.

The fruit-forwardness continues to show on the mid-palate. There is a still a little bit of honey lingering in this wine. Such a new and delightful twist for a Pinot to have. What is also beautiful about this wine is the very low tannins. For being a 2007, I’m a bit surprised but equally happy. I really don’t like the way young Pinots grip your mouth not allowing you to taste anything else but tannins. 

The best part about this wine is it’s alcohol content. I’m so happy to be drinking a wine that is hitting at 13%. I guess all of the big Zins from the past week added to my gripe over California’s over alcoholic wines. I want to enjoy a glass or two, not throw down a shot. This wine would be perfect for a summer time picnic. I’d give it a slight chill if taking outside. 

Once again, a beautiful showing from the Central Otago region, the hottest Pinot region anywhere in the world today.

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Haydn Adams is the author of the book, Wineries Beyond Napa Valley: Dry Creek and Alexander Valley, an insider’s tasting guide to the hidden gems region. He also contributes to the Beyond Napa Valley Wine Blog, writes for vinvillage.com, and can be found roaming the hills of Sonoma County looking for the next hidden gems. You can contact him at haydn@beyondnapavalley.com

Retail Price: $22.00
Appellation: Central Otago, New Zealand
Where you can buy this wine: Station Imports
ALC: 13%
Haydn gives this wine: 89 pts

New Zealand’s Central Otago wine region is the up and coming destination for all things Pinot Noir. It comes as no surprise as this well made beauty can be found. Balanced, smooth with soft hints of spice, bing cherry, a little plum and just a tad smoky.

The appearance of this Pinot is bit light. The rim is still nice and clear, but the color is starting to wane. Compared with the 2006 Pinot Noir from Nevis Bluff, this wine is starting to show it’s age (but only in color I remind you). While the color might appear a bit light, the aromas and tastes are mighty strong.

Right away on the nose, you can pick up a pleasant amount of cherries with just a pinch of smoke and spice, further giving indication of it’s age. The aromas are harmonious. This is one of the smoothest noses on a Pinot I’ve had in a while.

On the palate, you are presented with a bit more cherries. Yet, they also pick up along their way a bit of asian spice and smoke. They are not that powerful, leaving you with more fruit that smoke. No tannins whatsoever. Simply gorgous on the mid-palate. The finish drifts off nicely, albiet a tad quick. This was the reason why it didn’t break the 90 point mark. It just seemed to fall soon after sipping this wine.

However, aside from the short length, this wine is ready for drinking now. You can cellar this one, but given the years already with screw-top, there is no real reason for cellaring it for too long. Simply gorgeous. Kudos to the wine maker. A beautiful wine from start to finish.

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Haydn S. Adams is a wine author and reviews wines for wineries all over the world. He currently writes for vinvillage.com along with his own wine review site at www.beyondnapavalley.com/blog/.

Retail Price: $26.50
Appellation: Central Otago, New Zealand
Purchase at: stationimports.com
Haydn gives it 87 points

This wine shines in the glass, with a beautiful display of a gleaming brick red color. It’s only 2 years old and has the enthusiasm of being young and fresh with the rim further confirming its youthfulness. Yet don’t let the color of this wine throw you off. What it lacks in density, it picks up on the palate.

The aromas on the nose were pleasant, with hints of blackberry and cranberry, dancing beautifully together. There are no hints of earth or dirt at first in this wine. I imagine, after laying down in the cellar, that it would pick up a little, but overall, you’ll be smelling fruit.

The palate of this wine picks up some spiciness characteristics immediately on the tongue and at first, even attacks the front part of my tongue. In addition, a fair bit of tannins could be felt with this wine. On the mid-palate, along with the spicy aspect were still the blackberry and cranberry components. The wine was fairly silky and slipped right along and straight on to the finish. 

The spicy aspect of the wine dropped off and the berries continued to linger for just a little bit longer on the finish. I was hoping for a bit more to happen at the end, but it will delivered a smile to my mouth. 

While you could drink this solo, I’d probably recommend some sort of meal to go along with this wine, possibly a game hen or some type of turkey dish. The wine is a wonderful deal for its price point at $26.50. It’s a good wine to get a taste of Central Otago. 

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Haydn S. Adams is a wine author and reviews wines for wineries all over the world. For all reviews, check out his blog at www.beyondnapavalley.com/blog/

The color on this Pinot is beautiful. The fringe (the lip around the liquid) is clear and the wine displays a boisterous red, almost exclaiming, “I’m good” quality with the color.

The nose on had a few layers of complexity. Standing out in the spotlight was the classic bing cherry, a classic and stereotypical piece to a pinot. But it didn’t stop there. This wine goes a bit deeper in the fruit tray by displaying subtle hints of not-ripe plums. You can smell them sitting on the tree still displaying a sweetness to them. In addition, you also get a black berry resting ever so slightly. It took me at least a few whiffs to get it out. 

The word that accurately describes the feel of this wine on the attack and mid-palate is silky, tart and a tad leathery (ok, so that was more than 1 word). It’s as if I literally had a silky tongue and the wine glided right by, though making sure to drop it’s calling card to each of my taste buds. Very very subtle tannins that should dissipate in a matter of months. The black berries come out bit stronger on the taste, almost sitting 50/50 with the cherries. A scrumptious Pinot with loads of fruit on the palate. The finish is equally beautiful, trailing off after a minute or two longer to linger around. 

Overall this wine is divine. There are no jolts, buzzes or attacks to my senses whatsoever. A big thumbs up to the winemaker for finding the proper length to age these grapes in the barrel. 

As I mentioned before, I’d recommend letting this rest for another year to fully let the tannins go to sleep. 

Price: $40

Where you can get this wine: shop.laetitia.com/

2006 Scheid Pinot Noir

Pinot Noirs are some of the easiest wines to size up simply by judging their color. Unlike other wines that usually don’t budge, say a Petite Sirah or a Cab, the Pinot will range from bright red to a dirty vermillion.

With Scheid’s 2006 Pinot Noir, you’re going to get a bit more a lighter red on the color. I would characterize it as a bright brick color with it being semi-clear on the rim.

The nose embark visuals of  strawberry juice and raspberry popsicles. I envision both being 100% pure fruit juice, too. The nose in some way made me remember eating a popsicle as a kid on a hot sunny day, where the temperature outside is almost too warm and the welcomed relief of a chilling item on your tongue is better than all of the gold in the world. I wouldn’t call the nose luscious, but it’s in the same ball park. The nose was very clean, and my mouth started to salivate.

The rasberries and strawberries continue on the mid-palate and sat comfortably on my tongue. However I kind of wish that this wine would sit a bit more pronounced on my tongue. The flavors are well and balanced yet almost appear to be hiding. There were a light display of tannins, and unless you were looking for them to show up, they’d most likely pass right on by you. Deep in this wine, I could detect a hint of spiciness (we’re talking about a 50 on the scoville scale).  

The finish is smooth with the lingering berries trailing off into the sunset. The finish is concurrent with the nose and overall appearance of this wine—soft and subtle. Very subtle traces of vanilla could be found on the finish before the taste dissipates. 

This wine is a clear definition of a new-world pinot. The fruit forwardness is clearly present on all aspects of this wine. Another strong characteristic of this wine is the lightness on the mouth. While a petite sirah would come over and hijack your tastebuds, this wine just easily saunters by with more of a wave hello. Pinot Noir newbies, this wine is for you.  

You can get this wine:
Directly from Scheid at: scheidvineyards.com/

Recommended Food Pairing:
Roasted Cornish Game Hens - For this wine, you’re looking at white meat with a lean sauce. Too heavy, like gravy and it will wipe this wine out. Looking through foodTV.com (Food Network’s website), I found two dishes that I feel would pair will with this Pinot. The lightness of the hen mixed with an almost neutral dressing and the lightly spiced bird will be softened by this silky wine.

One of my least favorite places to shop for wine are large grocery stores. It seems that all they stock are the generics, the BV’s, the Sutter Homes and of course, the Beringers. I have nothing against them, but they are all boring wines (don’t get me started with the white Zins).

I figured that they would have a good Syrah lingering on the shelf. However, much to my sadness, the Syrahs ranged from the tip of Napa to the most Southern. I figured there had to be a wine that was not from Napa nor from Australia.

Lastly, and probably the most important, the price— $19! It is rare these days to find a pinot under twenty, yet alone to find a yummy pinot that is drinkable under $20. Aside from Pedroncelli’s Pinot, this is one of the top Pinots I’ve had in that price point.